FAQ

Submit a request, get a quote, approve the design, then follow progress from your customer dashboard.

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Total Cost is calculated by:
Cost to acquire disc on your behalf (or free if you ship your own disc to me)
+ Dye job: usually $20-$50 depending on complexity.
+ Return shipping: usually $6-$8 for 1-2 discs in the US.

Examples:

If you supply the disc, and the dye job is $30, and the return shipping is $6.50, then your total cost will be $36.50

If the disc is acquired on your behalf for $27 (disc plus tax and shipping), and the dye job is $30, and the the return shipping is $6.50, then your total cost will be $63.50

Yes.

Requests support customer-shipped discs, and discs acquired/supplied by DiscDyeAddict.

Process videos and images are usually be posted to DiscDyeAddict social media by default.
Customers can opt out on the commission form or by asking before the work is completed.
Customers are typically asked, just in case the disc is a gift and we want to avoid spoilers.

While it is technically possible to dye any disc, not all plastics produce good results. Base plastics (such as DX, Prime, Electron, Retro, or similar blends) absorb very little dye, resulting in dull colors that tend to fade quickly with use. For the best color vibrancy, sharp detail, and long-lasting results, premium plastics are strongly recommended, as they absorb and retain dye far more effectively.

No. You cannot make a darker disc lighter with dye.

Once dye is absorbed into the plastic, that becomes the base color you are now mixing with. So for example if your disc is black, you cannot add white dye (no matter how much you believed the Dyer's Guild's April Fools post in 2026). Your disc will always be black.

You can dye over that another color to change the disc color; like adding blue dye on a yellow disc would result in some kind of green shade.

Knowing your color wheel / color theory will help with this, and to help you avoid creating a muddy brown by mixing the wrong combination of colors.

Bottom line, if you want your disc to be certain colors, start with a white disc. Then the dyer can work with that. If you start with a non-white / non-clear disc, then the resulting dye colors will need to be adjusted to work with that particular base color.

Maybe. It depends on the dye style about how close each disc is going to come out.

For example, spin dyes are easier to match because that's a more consistent method of applying dye. But something like a Floetrol Cell or Glue Bed dye are almost impossible to replicate multiple times.

Usually you'll get the answer of "I'll try" and "I'll make them as similar as I can, but they will be slightly different"

Quick answer: Not if you want it "perfect:

Because plastic type, dye mix/saturation, temperature and other variables are.....variable, it's very difficult to match colors "exactly." We can get pretty close if you have another dyed disc that's a reference, but there'll always be a little question mark about the outcome. EXCEPT black. We can always get black correct.

The quick answer is NO.

If you want "exact" then checkout services that will "print" an image onto a disc. Dynamic Discs does this, and many customers of theirs seem to be really happy with the result. But that's printing and not dyeing.

Disc dyeing has dozens of variables, and so every dye job is literally one-of-a-kind. You can get "close" to a referenced image by using stencils, but it won't be exactly the same as if it was printed. Think of it more the difference between printing a photo versus having someone draw/paint an image. They might get really really close if they're an excellent artist, but it won't be "photo-quality,:

Most dyers use Prochemical and Dye Powder (PCAD), or iDye Poly dye powder. You can also use RIT synthetic (very popular and cheap for hot-dip dye methods). I have some links on the supplies page of this site if you want to check them out. I get a lot of my dye powders now from Dyelicious Discs.

You can use sharpie/permanent markers on discs, and that will stay. The small amount of alcohol/solvent in the permanent marker will make the color absorb into the disc (you probably knew this because you wrote your name under the disc and it won't come off no matter what you do to it).

I've found the MVP family of premium plastics dye the best, with Neutron being my most favorite to work with. MVP's fission, eclipse and proton plastics also take dye well, but Neutron is the king. Innova's Star plastic, and Kastaplast's premium plastics are also take dye really well.

Discraft ESP will take dye really well, but I've found it fades much quicker than other plastics. If you search Google for "disc dye plastic chart" then you'll find a matrix of brands, plastics and how well they take dye.

Disc dye artists will have their favorites, and there are LOTS of premium plastics out there that will dye just fine. I've just had the best experience so far with MVP, Kastaplast and Innova.

Disc golf stamps are applied by the manufacturer using hot foil stamping, but not all stamps are created equal. Different manufacturers—and sometimes even different production runs from the same manufacturer—use different foils, adhesives, and application processes. Because of this, some stamps bond very strongly to the plastic, while others can be loosened or removed during the dyeing process.

Certain dyeing techniques, particularly those involving heat, acetone, alcohol, or extended contact with other solvents, may cause a stamp to lift or peel. In many cases the stamp remains completely intact, but there is no reliable way to predict how a particular stamp will react until the dyeing process begins.

If preserving the original stamp is important to you, please let the dyer know before starting your project. Dyers can choose techniques that maximize the chances of keeping the stamp whenever possible. However, because of the variability in manufacturers' stamping processes, we cannot guarantee that the original stamp will survive the dyeing process.

The safest methods to ensure the stamp is unaffected is to use a method that will not interact with the stamp at all (like a room temperature glue bed dye) AND be super careful about washing the disc after the dye is done. Another safe'ish method is to use an isopropyl alcohol mix for dyeing. As long as the mix is not applied too strongly (too wet) and you don't rub too hard on the stamp, isopropyl alcohol will not remove a stamp.

Masking a stamp with glue or other methods can protect the stamp BUT when removing those masks it is possible to affect/degrade the stamp too.

Bottom line, agree with the dyer before they start if you want the stamp on, off, or if it doesn't matter to you.